Anna Margolina, Ph.D.

The main causes of damage to the epidermal barrier
- Cleansing
- Skin nutrition
- Moisturizing the skin
- some moisturizing ingredients  in cosmetics
- Day protection
- Vegetable oils for nourishing and restoring skin

After 30 years, many women note that their skin becomes sluggish, dry and dull. Usually such skin is different. hypersensitivityoften reddens and inflamed. These symptoms suggest that the epidermal skin barrier is damaged. If you do not take action, the skin will increasingly dehydrate, lose elasticity, fade.

MAIN CAUSES OF DAMAGE TO THE EPIDERMAL BARRIER:

1. Effects of factors that cause the formation of free radicals in the skin and peroxidation of epidermal lipids (UV radiation, radiation, immune reactions).

2. Direct destructive effect of aggressive substances on the stratum corneum (surfactant - Psurface- BUTktivnye ATsubstances, solvents).

3. Inhibition of the activity of epidermal cells that synthesize lipids (surfactants, radiation, UV radiation, aging).

4. Lack of essential fatty acids (linoleic, linolenic, gamma-linolenic).

Violation of the barrier function of the stratum corneum leads to serious consequences and is reflected primarily in the appearance of the skin. The first symptom of damage to the epidermal barrier is dry skin, then the adhesion between the horny scales is broken, which leads to increased peeling, then the normal differentiation of keratinocytes is disturbed and, along with the ongoing peeling, the horny layer thickens. The skin, the epidermal barrier of which is damaged, becomes permeable not only for water, but also for bacteria and toxins, therefore it often reddens, itches and inflames.

Restore the destroyed epidermal barrier is not easy. First of all, because the skin, the barrier properties of which are broken, becomes more sensitive to the effects of factors that cause further damage to the epidermal barrier. The higher the permeability of the skin to water, the deeper surfactants penetrate into it. detergents, microbes and toxins that cause inflammatory response and the formation of free radicals in the skin. Surfactants penetrating into the deep layers of the epidermis, destroy the cells of the basal layer, resulting in a violation of the synthesis of epidermal lipids, and free radicals formed in the skin due to inflammatory processes  and the action of toxins, cause further destruction of lipid layers. There is a vicious circle - the more damaged the epidermal barrier, the easier it is damaged. Therefore, the first thing to do to save the skin is to prevent further destruction of the barrier.

CLEANING

Need to start with washing. Carefully study the cleaning products that you use - perhaps it is in them is the main cause of the destruction of the epidermal barrier. All cleansing agents that come into contact with skin should be very mild. Try to wash with a cleanser no more than 2 times a day to reduce the possibility of skin irritation - a cleanser, however mild, aims to remove impurities from the skin and does not distinguish between used and protective fats or between sweat and skin moisture. The contact of the cleansing preparation with the skin of the face should be very short and should be thoroughly washed off.

Big problem  in modern cities has become water. Often it contains substances whose contact with damaged skin is undesirable. Therefore, in the period of exacerbation of sensitivity and irritability of the skin, it makes sense to wash with special purchased water or use floral water obtained by steam distillation from herbs and flowers.

SKIN SUPPLY

Damage to the barrier should be patched. Lipids are used for this, both in the form of pure oils and in combination with other ingredients in cosmetics. Lipid molecules penetrate the intercellular spaces and are inserted into the lipid barrier. Part of the lipid molecules deposited on top gradually moves through the intercellular spaces, reaches the living layers of the epidermis and is included in the cellular metabolism. In particular, they can serve as a foundation for the further synthesis of lipids characteristic of the skin barrier.

Most often, oils are used to supply cells with a “building material” containing essential fatty acids (linoleic and gamma-linolenic). They contribute to the accelerated synthesis of the components of the lipid barrier, delivering the necessary lipid precursors directly to the cells, thus having a particularly beneficial effect on the skin (borage oil, evening primrose, black currant). Sterol-rich oils stimulate keratinocytes and have anti-inflammatory properties (rosehip oil, tamanu, soybean, safflower oil). Oils enriched with saturated and monosaturated fatty acids have a more pronounced occlusive property (blocking evaporation of moisture) and help restore barrier properties due to hydration of the epidermis (shea butter, macadamia, corn, coconut, cocoa, cashew). It is desirable to apply oils to the skin after washing.

MOISTURIZING SKIN

Restoring the epidermal barrier is only one way to moisturize dry skin. This is a rather slow way, which also takes time. Restoring the barrier, we limit the evaporation of water through the stratum corneum. You can act differently - moisten the horny layer itself or cover it with a wet film. Another way to moisturize the skin is to increase the blood flow in the vessels of the dermis, thus increasing the flow of moisture into the epidermis.

The moisture content of the epidermis depends on the amount of moisture entering it from the dermis, as well as on the rate of evaporation of water through the stratum corneum. Top part  The stratum corneum, which is in direct contact with air, is practically devoid of lipids; therefore, it dries faster than the epidermis as a whole. However, horny scales have their own independent source of water supply - they attract water from the air with the help of special molecules with high moisture capacity (hygroscopicity). The complex of hygroscopic molecules on the surface of horn scales - natural moisturizing factor (NMF) - consists of:

Free amino acids - 40%
Pyroglutamate sodium - 12%
Urea - 7%
Ammonia, creatinine and other organic compounds - 17%
Magnesium - 1.5%
Potassium - 4%
Calcium - 1.5%
Sodium - 5%
Lactic and citric acids, chloride ions and phosphate - 12%

The amount of moisture associated with NMF depends on the elasticity of the stratum corneum. An insufficiently moisturized stratum corneum creates the appearance of dry skin, even if there is enough moisture in the epidermis. In order to increase the moisture content of the stratum corneum, the same substances that are part of the natural moisturizing factor are added to cosmetics. These are urea, amino acids (series, glycine, alanine, proline), minerals (magnesium, potassium, sodium, calcium), Na-XRD, lactic acid,

All substances capable of attracting moisture from the air (which are hygroscopic) have a moisturizing effect. However, glycerin is not recommended to be introduced into creams for dry skin, since by drawing water from the stratum corneum, it can dehydrate the skin even more. Sorbitol is less hygroscopic than glycerin, so the risk of drying the skin is less.

Recently, natural substances that form a moisture-saturated film on the skin are becoming more and more popular moisturizing components. These are hyaluronic acid, chitosan, β-glucan from baker's yeast, protein hydrolysates (for example, collagen or wheat protein). It is not recommended to use petroleum jelly and other heavy oils for moisturizing the skin, which form a waterproof film on the skin, as they are also impermeable to air and the skin under them suffocates.

SOME MOISTENING INGREDIENTS IN COSMETICS

Glycerol
Softens the skin, lowers the freezing point of the liquid (prevents the cream on the face from freezing on a frosty day). In humid air it acts as a skin moisturizer, drawing moisture from the atmosphere. In dry air it can draw water from the stratum corneum.

Urea
Component of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) of the stratum corneum. In cosmetic formulations is introduced in a concentration of about 5%. It is not recommended to use in cosmetics for sensitive skin and in children's cosmetics. It has a moisturizing, peeling and antimicrobial action.

Lactic acid
NMF component of the stratum corneum. Moisturizing, exfoliating, antimicrobial action.

Pyroglutamate sodium
NMF component of the stratum corneum. Formed in cells during keratinization from filagrin protein. Used in cosmetics as a moisturizing ingredient. The best result is the introduction of Na-PCA into liposomes.

Hyaluronic acid
Glycosaminoglycans, which is the main component of the intercellular substance of the dermis. Forms a film on the surface of the skin. It has a high water retention ability, softens, moisturizes the skin, reduces water loss through the stratum corneum.

Soluble Collagen
It forms a moisturizing film on the skin, reduces water loss through the stratum corneum, softens the skin, and accelerates the healing of minor skin lesions.

Chitosan
Polysaccharide derived from shells of marine crustaceans. It forms a moisturizing film on the skin, softens the skin and protects it from damage.

β-glucan
Polysaccharide derived from baker's yeast cell wall. It forms a moisturizing film on the skin, protects the skin from UV radiation, and has an immunostimulating effect.

DAY PROTECTION

During the day, skin should be protected from the damaging effects of UV rays, free radicals, and further dehydration. To do this, use creams with hyaluronic acid, chitosan, waxes (jojoba, candelilla, bee), vitamin E, plant extracts with vitamin C and flavonoids (rosemary, grapes, green tea, witch hazel, etc.).

For successful restoration of the epidermal barrier, the skin needs essential fatty acids, which are contained in the three main oils - black currant, borage, evening primrose. It is desirable not only to apply them on the skin, but also to consume it inside in the form of food additives. Saturated fats and margarine consisting of hydrogenated fat should be excluded from the diet. Of edible oils  very useful soybean, corn, sesame, rapeseed.

The true restoration of the epidermal barrier occurs only after the cells of the epidermis receive the necessary building material and produce a sufficient amount of ceramides and other epidermal lipids from which the epidermal layers will be built. But before this happens, you can put something like a patch on the lipid layer of the epidermis. For this purpose, cosmetics are used which contain ready-made layered structures built from polar lipids.

These can be liposomes or flat membrane-like structures (lamellae). Sometimes they are made of ceramides, but more often they are made on the basis of phospholipids (they are similar to ceramides, but have two hydrophobic tails). When it hits the damaged stratum corneum, liposomes or lipid lamellae are embedded in areas lacking lipids, and close up the holes in the epidermal barrier.

VEGETABLE OILS FOR NUTRITION AND RESTORATION OF THE SKIN

Borage oil
Borage seed, borage
Borago officinalis L.
Borage seed contains up to 33% gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) rich oil. It defines its unique regenerating properties. Recommended for dry and fading skin, also used as a dietary supplement that improves the structure of skin and hair.

Oil Enotera / Evening primroses (Evening primrose oil)
Enotera biennial
Oenothera biennis L.
"Evening Primula" - a direct translation of one of the English names of the plant, the flowers of which are revealed only before sunset. The seeds of evening primrose contain from 65 to 80% linoleic acid and from 8 to 14% gamma linolenic acid. Due to its high regenerating properties, it is effective in therapy. skin diseases  (externally and in the form of food supplements). Stimulates the growth of nails, is used as a softening and moisturizing ingredient in cosmetics.

Blackcurrant oil (Blackcurrant seed oil)
Black currant
Ribes nigrum L.
Black currant oil is famous for high content linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids in an optimal ratio of 1: 1. The integrity of the epidermal barrier and the moisture-retaining properties of the skin depend on the content of GLA in the epidermis. It is used in therapeutic and prophylactic agents, especially recommended for dry and aging skin. A necessary component of anti-age therapy.

Rosehip oil (Rose hips seed oil / Rosa mosqueta oil / Musk rose seed oil)
Musk (muscat) rose
Rosa moschata J. Hermann
Rosehip fatty oil is obtained from the seeds of wild rose hips (bush climbing roses). It is used in medicine to treat wounds and accelerate the regeneration of damaged tissues. Due to the high content of linoleic acid has anti-inflammatory properties. Used in body care products for normal, dry and damaged skin; for weakened, damaged hair. Promotes healing of small wounds and cracks.

Macadamia oil
Macadamia Triple Thistle
Macadamia ternifolia F. Muehl
Macadamia oil is rich in triglycerols of stearic (about 60%) and palmitic (21%) acids, as well as vitamins of group B and PP. It helps to maintain the water balance of the skin, it is easily absorbed, softens and nourishes the skin.

Soybean Oil (Soybeen oil)
Soy Cultural
Glycine maxima (L.)
Due to the high content of sitosterol, tocopherols and essential fatty acids, it has pronounced regenerating properties, restores the epidermal barrier and moisture retention of the skin.

Shea butter
Butyrospermum parkii
The seeds of the shea tree (“oil tree”) of the grassy, ​​dry shrouds of West and Central Africa contain up to 50% of the fat, which preserves the consistency butter  even at a temperature of 35 degrees. It is very much appreciated by the local population, which calls it “carite” or “shea” (“shi”). Due to the exceptionally high content of unsaponifiable ingredients, it has strong antioxidant and regenerating properties. Used in sunscreens, especially recommended for anti-age cosmetics. Restores damaged, dry hair.

Cocoa Butter (Cacao butter)
Cocoa, Chocolate Tree
Teobroma cacao L.
The oil contains stearic, palmitic, oleic and linolenic acids. It has a healing and tonic effect, is used for dry, sensitive, delicate skin.

In winter, when winds and frosts do not spare the skin, there is an urgent need for additional care. The skin of the hands is particularly affected, which is exposed every day not only to weather factors, but also to the household cleaning products drying it. Sometimes the damage becomes so severe that conventional creams can no longer cope with their functions. In this case, it is necessary to change the care: hand oil will come to the rescue.

What oils are suitable for hands?

It is believed that a woman’s hands can be used to determine her age. That is why caring for this area is so important. Modern cosmetics help to deceive nature by rejuvenating the skin, saving it from the signs of aging. However, creams are often in doubt about the benefits of their use, and the effect is not always what I would like to see. Ethers are real treasures of valuable substances capable of transforming even the most damaged epidermis at home. Hands after their application will be soft, smooth, soft to the touch. Fragile and turn into healthy and strong.

In fact, the list of oils suitable for, is quite extensive. Among them there are nutritional, and those that will relieve dryness, as well as protective and healing. They are used both in undiluted form, and with various additives. In addition, you can apply each type, both independently and making mixtures with other oils. Here are the most effective and popular ones: sea buckthorn, coconut, burdock, argan, olive, almond, rosehip, castor, shea (shea), peach, jojoba.

For example, olive, peach, almond, coconut and argan and shea butter will moisturize the skin, relieve it from dryness, sea buckthorn oil and jojoba oil will quickly tighten existing wounds, and castor and rosehip will protect against the harmful effects of external factors. In order to choose a suitable tool, you should ensure that you are not allergic to it. For this, a special small test is carried out: the substance is applied to the inner side of the hand for 10-15 minutes, after which it is washed off. If there are no reactions, but you can safely apply it.

In addition, it is possible that not every oil is suitable for the care of a particular skin. It may not cause allergies, but it does not act properly. Fortunately, all of these tools are affordable and inexpensive, you can buy them at any pharmacy and use the sample method to choose the one that will give the best result.

In the care of hands, both basic and essential oils are used. The ether essence of lemon is considered the most suitable, as it is known for its whitening properties, valuable for skin and nail plates. Tea tree essences (well disinfectant), orange, grapefruit (tone up, moisturize), ylang-ylang (gives elasticity, protects) are also often used. They are included in the composition of the baths, masks, oil mixtures. They perfectly complement any natural. cosmetic, making it even more valuable and rewarding.

The action of oils depends on the regularity of their use in the care. Of course, you can make a mask, prepared with their use, and once, but it is important to understand that this will give rather only an external and rather short-term effect. For example, peach, coconut or shea butter will moisturize the skin well, but only regular procedures with them will help to achieve real skin rejuvenation.

Many basic and essential ethers can positively affect the skin. Moreover, even those that are not recommended to be used undiluted for the face (for example, castor and burdock) are perfect for hands. It is worth considering the properties of each of them, as well as how to use them.

Moisturizing oils

Coconut

Since ancient times, coconut oil has been used by beauties around the world to care for face, hair, body and hands. It gives a stunning moisturizing effect that lasts a long time, since it contains hyaluronic acid. It provides care and nails, nourishing the cuticle, not allowing it to grow quickly and dry. Coconut oil is also known for its ability to heal cracks and burns, to quickly eliminate flaking.

You can take a few drops of pure substance and apply it on your hands with massaging movements, paying particular attention to the dry zones and the cuticle. It will be useful to regularly make such a mask: a mixture of warm coconut, almond and hemp oils (one teaspoon each), glycerin (dessert spoon) and 4 drops of orange oil. Mix, put on hands, put on gloves on top and leave overnight.

Argan oil

Currently, argan extract is at the peak of its popularity. On the shelves of cosmetic stores you can find a very large number of products containing it in its composition. This results from the fact that it possesses the noticeable rejuvenating ability. The result will be visible after a couple of applications. A popular use is baths: two tablespoons of argan oil and the same amount of fresh lemon juice are mixed together. Omit hands in it and hold for 20 minutes. The result - moisturizing the skin, strengthen and whiten nails at home. You can still apply a small amount of  funds on the skin and massage it for 10-15 minutes. After the procedure, it is not recommended to wash your hands for at least an hour. This treatment will make the skin very velvety.

Olive oil

The composition of olive ether in the first place includes a huge amount of vitamin E. It is due to its effect deep moisturizing. And acids and antioxidants complement the main action, toning the skin and making it more even.

You can use the tool yourself as a cream (with or without the addition of a couple of drops of essential lemon essences). In addition, you can make olive with it by mixing the oil with fine salt. For whitening nails, baths with a mixture of coconut, olive, argan oils and lemon juice are suitable.

Almond oil

The convenience of using almond oil is that it is very quickly absorbed, but it is not inferior in its ability to moisturize the skin to many expensive cosmetic products. It can be added to the store for their enrichment, and can be applied in its pure form, putting on your hands at night or on the cuticle after each manicure. Almond oil softens the skin, makes it velvety, and in combination with the essential essences of lemon and flower, ylang-ylang will acquire whitening and protective properties. A mixture of argan, almond oils and jojoba essence gives life-giving hydration even to damaged skin of the hands.

Peach

The composition of the peach extract is rich in iron, phosphorus, calcium and other useful trace elements. First of all, it is a moisturizer, but its smoothing and softening properties should not be diminished. A particularly effective mixture is obtained by combining peach, almond and hemp oil: it can be replaced with a cream or used as a mask, causing a thick layer and rinsing off after 20-25 minutes. Both methods of application quickly reanimate even very damaged skin.

Shea Butter

Unrefined shea butter has a solid texture, but instantly melts when it comes into contact with the skin. It absorbs quickly enough, moisturizes the skin and protects it from the effects of aggressive external factors. It is perfect as an emergency way to restore rough and damaged skin. The shea butter applied with a fat layer overnight will make the dermis soft and smooth and heal wounds. It can be used as a means for the cuticle after a manicure, either separately or by combining sea buckthorn, jojoba, burdock or argan with ethers.

Oils with nourishing, protective and healing action

Sea buckthorn oil

Sea buckthorn extract contains a large amount of vitamins A, C and E, saturated fatty acids. It has a strong regenerating effect, heals wounds and cracks, removes peeling, eliminates dryness, slows down the aging process. It heals brittle nailsmaking them durable. You can apply it yourself (under nutritious cream), wearing gloves on top and leaving for the night. In the morning the skin of the hands will change, it will become soft and smooth. In addition, you can attach sea buckthorn oil to the damaged areas in the form of compresses, leaving for 20-30 minutes.

For a very dry chapped skin, the following mask is suitable, which can be prepared at home: combine one raw egg yolk, a teaspoon of full-fat milk, a teaspoon of sea-buckthorn oil and rosehip. Put on your hands, wrap them cling film, wrap a towel, hold for 15 minutes, rinse.

Burdock

Burdock oil is a wonderful supplier of valuable substances to the deep layers of the epidermis. It contains various vitamins, minerals, protein, which allows it not only to nourish the skin, but also to launch regeneration processes in it. One more useful property  - noticeable strengthening and acceleration of nail growth. It is recommended to rub oil into the cuticle area a couple of times a day for a month.

Burdock oil is used for hand massage and also as a night cream. It will be especially useful to mix it in equal quantities with peach and castor oil, apply and leave overnight, repeating the procedure several times a week. Another recipe: to burdock oil to add hemp, as well as fresh aloe juice. This mixture is also able to replace the care agent.

Rosehip oil

Rosehip is rich in vitamin C. Its extract nourishes and rejuvenates the epidermis. Especially useful will be the use of this oil in the winter time, because it perfectly protects the skin from winds and frost, soothes, heals it, eliminates dryness. From cracks in the hands, you can use baths with it and sea buckthorn oil, mixed equally. Protective hand cream is easily done at home, you just need to make a mixture of shea butter, rosehip, peach and olive in equal proportions.

Castor

The effect of castor oil is unique: it can even solve dermatological problems on the skin of the hands. It has antifungal effect and acts as an antioxidant. Spot method of applying castor oil will help get rid of warts, while not overdrying the skin, and moisturizing it. It is worth noting that the product has a specific odor and fatty consistency, therefore, it is better to apply it at night and under gloves. If you mix it with the essence of wild rose, you get a wonderful night creamenhancing skin immunity.

Jojoba oil

Jojoba oil perfectly nourishes the skin. It is especially valuable for brittle and exfoliating nails. Due to the vitamin E contained in it, the agent has an additional healing ability, therefore it can be used in the form of compresses for damaged areas skin. When mixing jojoba extract with castor and burdock oils  It turns out a wonderful bath for the fingers, and with olive - a nourishing night cream. A mixture of jojoba, rosehip and shea oils is used to massage the hands at home.

In any case, whichever of the above is chosen for hand care, it will give an amazing result and will be completely natural. It is not necessary to use these recipes, you can mix any ethers with each other, experiment, until the result fully satisfies all your needs.